Barbecue summer

by Alexandra Matoshko, Kyiv Post Guide Editor
Jul 02 2008, 20:16

© KP Media, photo by Konstantin Klimenko Fancy a piece? Time to get out of town and have a shashlik party!

Probably the best part of the summer is having outdoor parties with the highlight being shashlik. In Ukraine, making shashlik is a party in itself – either you do it at your country house, or in a park in Kyiv or the suburbs of the city. All you need to do is gather a group of friends – the more the better, and pick a location. Also, make sure that at least a few of your friends actually know how to make shashlik! From my experience, while everyone is always eager to eat it, not everyone knows how to prepare it – from lighting a fire, to getting the sizzling aromatic bits of meat off a skewer and onto the plate.

The meaty part

As it turns out, the word “shashlik” is actually of Ukrainian origin. The Cossacks simply altered the pronunciation of the Crimean-Tatar word “shishlik” to give it a specific name to the meat prepared over the fire.

In Ukraine, pork shashlik is the most popular. The meat for it is taken from the neck or shoulder of a pig – for the most tender shashlik. The true gourmet shashlik makers use ribs as well. If for some reason you don’t like pork, use veal – the shoulder part or still better – tenderloin. While the most popular meat for classic Caucasian shashlik is mutton, it’s not very popular among Kyivans, though sometimes you may be able to find it at the Bessarabskiy and Zhitniy markets.

Those who are calorie-counting and prefer a different type of meat should try chicken – small chickens can be fried whole, or you can use marinated chicken legs and wings. Only you’ll have to be extra careful when grilling those, a few extra minutes on the grill could burn your birds. Catfish is considered the most popular of fish shashlik, followed closely by sturgeon, salmon, and trout.

Finally, there is vegetable shashlik, which can be enjoyed just as it is by ardent vegetarians and as garnish for the fried meat and fish. Zucchinis, squashes, tomatoes, onion, sweet pepper, corn, and mushrooms are among the vegetables most suitable for cooking over fire and add a colorful side to your shashlik. 

Marinade dilemma

Meat for shashlik is traditionally marinated  for a few hours or even overnight. In fact most experts would advise you against marinating really fresh meat of a young animal, because it is usually tender enough, and marinade will only take away some of its natural flavor. Most common marinades are made of vinegar, with spices, herbs and garlic, and may also include mayonnaise and wine. Fish for shashlik is best if marinated two to three hours without vinegar.

The other option is buying already cut and marinated meat. You can get veal and pork shashlik, as well as marinated chicken legs and wings, and even kebab at most big supermarkets in town. Of course in this case there is no way you can check the freshness of the meat, but mostly it turns out quite all right.

If you don’t trust the supermarket get marinated meat at one of the restaurants selling prepared meat.

At Varenichna on Dnipro you can get a picnic basket filled with marinated meat and fish, kebabs, and fruit for dessert. The prices for raw meat will be 25% off the ones listed on the regular menu. It’s best to make a preliminary order, and you won’t have to wait.

At Khinkali, a shashlik assortment including pork, chicken and veal will be offered accompanied by fresh produce, herbs, marinated onion, cheese assortment and lavash – such a package will cost about Hr 850, which will be enough for a company of four people.

Berezka also offers a package with three kinds of marinated meat, pickled cucumbers and mushrooms, homemade sausage and a bottle of vodka. This shashlik kit costs Hr 494.

At Karavan, any of the types of shashlik offered on the menu can be purchased raw with a 30% discount. If you require meat for more than 10 people, make an order in advance.

One of the oldest Kyiv restaurants, Zozulia will sell you marinated meat for picnic with 30% discount. Once again, if you plan to have a really big party, ring up the restaurant and file your request in advance.

And of course, make sure you get the rest of shashlik supplies. First of all you’ll need a set of skewers and a portable grill. Firewood and inflammable liquid is also available at most supermarkets. If you do it the romantic Ukrainian-way – by the river or in a clearing in the forest you can get a small grill or barbecue. And if you wish you can look for firewood yourself, as long as you don’t mind that it will prolong the cooking process – after all it will certainly add a wild touch to your shashlik party.

Ready-made

If you just feel like eating shashlik and don’t want to bother with shopping and cooking, you can simply go down to a restaurant and order it. In summer in Kyiv you can get it at plenty of places – some include an assortment of shashlik in their summer specials or even introduce grill menus.

Hydropark seems to be the only place in Kyiv where the whole area is specially designated for having shashlik. Even if you just pass by the place in the car or metro, you can smell shashlik aroma constantly standing in the air. Hydropark is simply packed with restaurants offering shashlik as the main dish – you can often see big signs announcing prices for shashlik next to the eateries. And those prices are quite plausible – starting at about Hr 30.

Of course, here comes the question about the quality – generally crowded Hydropark doesn’t make an impression of an especially clean and neat place. What can I tell you – I had shashlik a few times at one of those eateries next to the metro. It tasted fine and I felt fine afterwards also. The main drawback of having shashlik at Hydropark is firstly the crowds – which can be a plus if you like people-watching, and secondly the music. If you’re lucky it will be some mainstream pop radio, if not – a compilation of Russian and Ukrainian pop stars, or worse still – Russian chanson. Still Hydropark’s shashlik has it attraction – after a day on the beach, hunger may attack you without warning, and the seductive smell following you as you head towards the metro or the taxi might make you stop by for a meal.

As there are way too many restaurants serving shashlik in the city to try and name them all, I’ll just indicate the ones located on the outskirts of Kyiv or out of town (not too far), as those are provided with best conditions for savoring shashlik.

Alexandra Matoshko can be reached at matoshko@kpmedia.ua or 496-4563.

Varenichna on Dnipro (Naberezhne Shose, stairs No. 6-7  (Dnipro metro), 428-7299)

Khinkali (4 Rustaveli, 234-0692)

Berezka (2 Esplanadna, 581-3222)

Karavan (10 Klovskiy Uzviz, 280-9577)

Zozulia (16 Parkova Doroha, 278-8841)

Kniazhiy Dvir (39 Stohniya, Brovarskiy district, Knyazhychi village, 332-4626)

Rancho Bolivar (35 km of Kyiv-Odessa route, 114 Schorsa, Zdorivka village, 451-5454)

Partisan (28 km of New Obukhiv route, Pidhirtsi village, 467-7343)

Dukhmiana Pich (4 km of New Obukhiv route, Lesniki village, 406-3673, (067) 547-2216)

Razgulyaevo (70 Stolichne Shose, 259-1700)

Kray-Ray (8A Lisova, Obukhiv district, Pidhirtsi village, 380 (272) 44761)

Dva Bobra (27 km of Kyiv-Zhytomyr route, 91 Komarova, Mila village, 8(067)233-38-08)

Rancho Dykiy Zapad (New Obukhiv route, 1 Vorovskoho, village Pidhirtsi, 228-9444)

Kureni (4 Parkova Aleya, Pechersk district, 253-1724)

Myslyvets (147/5 Saksahanskoho, 236-3735)

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